French bistros are really a dime a dozen these day, and we're trying to weed out the ones that are worth your time. Ici, in Fort Greene, is one of the keepers. The low-key charm developed by the owners (a husband and wife team) is a welcome respite from the haughtiness that infuses a handful of bistros around town, and its locally grown, seasonal menu with refreshingly reasonable prices is just right. Recommended dishes include a classic pan seared Black Angus hanger steak and a sublime chicken liver schnitzel with a hint of lemon. Open for breakfast, lunch and dinner every day but Monday. Reservations recommended.
Ici
246 DeKalb Ave., at Vanderbilt Avenue, Brooklyn | 718-789-2778